THE READER: Cateringa & Kompanen

Alexander Geijzendorffer and Odrada Burghoorn are members of Cateringa & Kompanen – a Dutch artist collective of makers with a specific interest in mixing food, art and the interaction between people. They find food and its context to be an artistic material like copper, clay or pain. Yet it offers so much more in terms of how its perceived. What is “good”? What is “normal”? What is “health”? What beholds the future? They challenge and investigate these concepts in various forms, from performance and installations to interactive buffets and experimental film nights.

What are you reading at the moment?

A: Ai. You caught us at just after a massive book binge. I’m trying to read nine books at the same time to prepare our research for next year. Ahem… Let’s say the main two today are Ingredients by Dwight Eschliman and Steve Ettlinger and Chemistry for Dummies by John T. Moore. The first is “a visual exploration of 75 food additives & 25 food products”. It’s my breakfast and coffee book. Page after page of glossy photos with whitish powders or translucent liquids. The second helps me to bring back the fundamentals on food chemistry that I realise I lack for fully understanding the other seven books.

How do you decide what to read next?

A: Often friends and fellow artists/chefs will advise me books on a topic we are discussing. Occasionally I realise that internet offers mostly superficial snippets and I need something thorough and real.

What book has had the greatest impact on you?

A: Sophie’s World by Jostein Gaarder. I realised all adults have gone through a phase of existentialism and somehow decided it was worth living anyway. This blew my mind.

O: Still love John Seymour’s The New Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency. It covers everything from building a compost toilet to how to see if a chicken egg is fertilised to harvesting and storing your crop. when our modern world collapses you can use this book to stay alive 🙂 

Do you read on tablet, Kindle, paper or all three?

O: Tablet and paper. Tablet while travelling because paper tends to be heavy to bring, but i prefer paper at home. When I love something i want to own it on paper.

A: Almost only paper. I loathe all the screen work I have to do and prefer to jump around and do stuff. Paper books are kind of between.

What were your favourite books as a child?

A: Oh! The Witches’ Handbook by Malcolm Bird. An illustrated guide to be a witch, including recipes for worm soup, how to spoil your neighbours’ harvest and useful career suggestions.

O: Meester van de zwarte molen by Otfried Preußler (which in English mean “the satanic mill”) has a fairy-tale quality, magic and a romantic plot and it plays in a mill (yay, bread!).

What’s the last book you gave as a gift?

A: Cooking for Geeks by Jeff Potter. A typical engineer who decided cooking would mix well with graphs and screwdrivers. I’m about to give it as a gift to a friend of mine who never liked cooking till it became difficult. I believe in borrowing books.

O: for my sister one of Ottolenghi’s beautiful books for her birthday.

What’s the last thing you read that made you laugh?

A: Many things. Yesterday I read a comparison of how electrons around the core of an atom try to keep as much distance from each other as they can are very similar to you and another person in the same cocktail dress on a fancy gala. I don’t know which one took more imagination.

O: I stumbled upon the columns by Renske de Greef last week and found them hilarious.

Which book have you never been able to finish reading?

Ulysses by James Joyce. My interest in novels has diminished over the years to make space for more informative books. This mindboggling stream of words was the first victim to fall.

O: I am OCD about reading books, I have to absorb every word, read a page again when I find myself drifting away, and it is impossible to not finish a book that I have read halfway. And I actually read Ulysses, Alex. 😉

What book do you turn to for advice?

A: Ehm. Heukels’ Flora van Nederland by R. van der Meijden. The biologists’ handbook for determining exactly which wild plant is about to kill you for trying to eat it. The SAS Survival Guide offers some basics on that too.

O: I have a copy of the I Tjing lying around somewhere that I used in a playful manner with my friends to advise us on the important questions in life. That was fun for a while.

The best food magazine?

A: Ai ai ai. I’m afraid I don’t read any magazines. I might follow up on interesting articles that pass by on my Facebook feed from various online magazines.

O: No magazines, but food blogs, I like the dessert recipes of Chocolate Covered Katie.

The recipe book you use the most?

A: Ottolenghi’s Plenty More. I live in a communal house with six other entrepreneurs that love cooking in their spare time. It’s actually a luxury with which I never have to buy recipe books myself. Ottelenghi has an interesting non-dogmatic view on cooking with vegetables (“this would be great with a piece of lamb”), that I much

appreciate. Every kitchen, from raw to vegan to African to molecular has interesting features, but I take open mindedness as the healthiest approach to life.

Favourite book about food?

A: Harold McGee’s book On Food and Cooking. Great and almost too-thorough bible of the scientific processes that happen in food cooking. A must-read. Maybe prep up on your chemistry basics though.

If you could cook dinner for a dead writer, who which writer would it be, where would you eat with them, and what would you make them?

A: Roald Dahl, whom I feel would appreciate anything cooked with enthusiasm. He would be more than welcome to join us at my house and dig into whatever has been created by whoever that day. Home cooking is as much about informal ambience as it is about the freedom to try new things.

Geijzendorffer and Burghoorn will be speaking in Joburg at the Spier Secret Festival on Sunday, 6 November 2016. Book your tickets here.

A taste of heritage

BY ISHAY GOVENDER-YPMA

A combination of unique flavours, complex history and an element of secrecy has made Cape Malay food the Cape’s defining cuisine.

Comparatively few well-researched books exist on this rich culinary tradition or the people who have shaped it. Within the pages of C. Louis leipoldt’s Cape Cooking and Food and Wine, I yearned to discover more than mere reflections on the beloved poet-physician’s grasp of the culinary history he was threading together with recipes of the region. I looked, in hope, for fragments of the lives of the descendants of slaves from Java, Indonesia, Ceylon, Madagascar – the women who stirred the pots and added the scent of spices to the air. It was their stories I imagined.

Quivertree’s Bo-Kaap Kitchen – Heritage Recipes and True Stories fastens Cape Malay recipes to the stories of their rightful community, in what we are told is a project both for them and by them. It is not an academic work, though a historical timeline is usefully sketched at the outset.

The book’s photographer, Craig Fraser, explains in his foreword: “For years we have witnessed commercial buildings slowly creep up the Signal Hill side of Buitengracht Street, gradually blotting out the colourful houses of the Bo-Kaap. For some time now I have felt the urgency to produce a book that in some way preserves this historic Cape Muslim quarter, even if only on paper.”

Barging into these modest homes with a grand idea of immortalising the area’s history could never be expected to gain enthusiastic support in such a traditional and largely private community. Local Bo-Kaap guide Shireen Narkedien, who has lived in the area most of her life and who believed in the project from the start, served as the go-between, facilitating the conversations between Fraser’s team and the community.

Granted a sharp looking glass into the intimate lives of members of the Bo-Kaap community is nothing short of a delight. Most of the neighbourhood’s residents are devoutly Muslim, owning recipes that have been guarded closely for generations.

The text is written in the same way the participants speak, and it’s easy to imagine listening to the speakers while you sit on a settee with a cup of tea. The book starts with 87-year-old Aunty Asie Abrahams who has 11 children and who, at the time of publication, still worked as a caterer.

“You must never rush… If you work with a system you don’t get tired. And you mustn’t shout at each other… A proper bredie (stew) takes three hours to cook. It’s the love of my life, this food making,” she tells you.

While there are no recipes from Abrahams (possibly the quantities she works with for weddings and funerals are too large to have been converted accurately), photographs from her family album still create the impression of a personal interaction.

It has been revealed by Malay cooks (and others who have been trying to accurately record their recipes) that mistrust and the uneasy relationship between master and servant meant that the correct and comprehensive recipes were never given away. In Bo-Kaap Kitchen, however, the contributors have a vested interest in sharing their stories. By doing so, they are ensuring that their recipes and traditions can be preserved for future generations – who inhabit an increasingly altered world – to enjoy. And so each well-tested dish is offered up here with pride.

The secret to the koesister (a Malay spiced doughnut) is sundried naartjie peel, says Kubra Mohamed. Her koesister business has earned her a feature on television, and loyal customers queuing outside her door.

Other classic Cape Malay recipes in the book include bredies, spicy deep-fried dhaltjies, the love-it-or-hate-it mince with savoury custard called bobotie, meat balls in cabbage leaves (oumens onder die kombers), breyani, kumquat atchar, and denningvleis (a sweet-and-sour lamb dish).

The personalities you will encounter are just as fascinating as the recipes. you will discover tales of love lost, love gained, struggle, triumph and the tiniest hints of narcissism. Deeply respectful to the people whose story it tells, Bo-Kaap Kitchen is a hugely entertaining and richly satisfying addition to your culinary bookshelf.

Bo-Kaap Kitchen is published by Quivertree and is available from Kalahari.com.

EXTRACT: Sababa

AERODROME’s team members are huge fans of Sababa, Tal Smith and Nirit Saban’s deli which serves up deliciously fresh Middle Eastern and Israeli-inspired food at its branches in Cape Town’s CBD and Sea Point. Sababa, Smith and Saban’s first cookbook, has tried and tested recipes accompanied by beautiful photograhs. We love the smattering of family anecdotes – our favourites are those centred around the Saban family’s traditions and memories, as well as the ones that explain how, where and why the dishes originated. The really helpful cook’s notes include serving suggestions, alternative ingredient options, decoration ideas, cooking guidelines and specific ingredient notes and recommendations (like why Mediterranean cucumbers are used in the Israeli salad).

Sababa is a wonderful way of bringing some of this special deli’s culinary magic home – after flipping through just a few pages, you will want to get straight into the kitchen. Below are our five favourite recipes. Click on the images to enlarge them.

Sababa Recipe 1

Sababa Recipe 2 Sababa Recipe 3 Sababa Recipe 4 Sababa Recipe 5

 

Sababa is published by Jacana and is available from Kalahari.com.